Cornwall

We plan to spend the next week or so touring around Cornwall, in the far south west of England, and hopefully have a Cornish Pasty or three.  The "national dish" of Cornwall, you may be surprised to know that the "Cornish Pasty" was awarded Protected Geographical Indication status by the European Commission on 20 July 2011.  Obviously the EU has nothing else important to worry about at the moment!

Thursday 10 November

Well the weather forecast was wrong and it's a glorious day but we're still on the move further south to St Ives in Cornwall which used to be famous for pilchard fishing but is now best known for it's artists and tourism. It should take us around 4 hours or so to get there.

Taking the A39 coastal road - the so-called Atlantic Highway - which is more picturesque but quite hairy in places with narrow lanes, steep decents, hedges on both sides and large trucks coming the other way.  The worst time was coming down Countisbury Road - which is a huge 20% gradient for more then a mile down, and then finishes off with a gravity defying 25% gradient for the last stretch, including a sharp corner. Whew.

Luckily all the other signs indicating deer, sheep and cattle in the next X miles were incorrect although it would have been great to see a deer. Neither did we spot the illusive Exmoor ponies which are said to run wild. What we did see at one point on a high ridge were dozens of pheasants pecking about in a paddock just like chickens.

The views were indeed picturesque and we were glad to have fine weather for this drive to enjoy the lush forests, rushing streams and the occasional glimps of the ocean. This time we could see the Brecon Becons and Wales in the distance. Magical.

Close to our destination we detoured to take a quick look at Newquay, another coastal town very popular with surfers and we could certainly see why. The sizeable waves rival any at our Aussie beaches and the modern apartments with fantastic water views make it look very Gold Coast. It really is beautiful and very inviting.

However so is St Ives and when we arrive at our camp site, the Ayr Holiday Park located on a hilltop we marvel at this magnificent view. The town below looks a combination of old and new. On the elevated point there is a small building and further out is the lighthouse. The moon is full tonight and it's a magnificent sight as it rises over scene below.

This is not a Caravan Club site but the facilities are 5 star, fully heated including the floor as well as plenty of hot water. We may have to stay here a few days.

In the news, the new Greek PM to lead the emergency government before elections can be held next year is Lucas Papademos.

Friday 11 November

Remembrance Day today and we observed the 2 minutes silence at 11am while watching on TV the ceremony at the Cenotaph in Whitehall, London. After learning so much of the history of both world wars on our travels, this Remembrance Day has special meaning for us.

The winds and rain came up overnight and stuck around until midday when we decided to venture down town. Temperature is around 12 degrees which isn't too bad.

Previously, most of the town closed after October but thankfully now stays open all year round so there is much activity with restaurants and cafes open and most shops. Every square inch of the place is taken up with stone cottages for galleries, B&Bs or some eating establishment and it's a real labyrinth.

There are 3 “real” beaches with sand like we know in Australia and the surf looks pretty good though no-one is partaking.

The harbour is full of small fishing boats and occasionally we spy a seal bobbing it's head out of the water. This is a lovely little town and must go totally off in summer.

The houses and shops are all painted either white or beige with dark slate roofs now a mustard colour due to the growing moss. From a short distance away this uniformity looks quite lovely.

We have fallen in love with the “cream teas” they serve in the UK but especially in this part of the country where you get clotted cream which is as delectably evil and delicious as it sounds. Two large scones with jam and cream plus tea is all we needed for the rest of the day. Funny enough, most places selling cream teas also offer to post them to where ever you like. Imagine receiving a couple of scones, a pot of jam and clotted cream through the mail?!

Walking to the elevated point we could see from our camp site, we discover a coast guard watch tower and a small chapel honouring the seamen who never returned. We finish off the walk lining the coast and see a few more seals swimming about before we stroll along the stretch of beach nearest our camp site. The water is very clear and the breaking waves have a green tinge to them.

The walk back to camp is quite steep and we reward ourselves with a drink and the glorious view below. The weather was very kind to us today and should be even better tomorrow.

Saturday 12 November

Happy birthday to Bill's brother John and congratulations to the Gold Coast for winning the right to host the 2018 Commonwealth Games.

A magnificent, sunny day so we decide to just chill for the day and take a break from being tourists having to visit everything in sight.

We take the more “adventurous” coastal walk down town and end up traipsing in mud and almost falling over slippery rocks on the path. We won't be coming back up this way!! It is lovely though when we reach a rocky outcrop very close to the first beach (Porthmeor) and see several surfers catching decent sized waves. A guy with a large kite is having no luck today as there is no wind.

The crowds are up today and it's no wonder with this fabulous weather. Bill is surprised at how far the tide goes out here and most of the boats near the pier are sitting on the sand.

We stroll around to Porthminster Beach which we didn't get to yesterday. This is a more protected beach and perfect for families. Surprisingly we see two ladies (obviously locals or from Norway!!) in bikinis having a swim. It makes us cold just looking at them.

This is a lovely spot and we decide to settle in at a restaurant (Porthminster Cafe) overlooking the beach for a long lunch. They don't seem to do seafood platters here but we do select some lovely seafood dishes – scallops, salt and pepper squid and fish.

What a fabulous, relaxing way to spend the day in such a beautiful place. And our entertainment was not only a regatta for juniors but the two couples sitting either side of us.

By the time we start to head back to camp the weather has turned, it's overcast and the wind is coming up. The tide is in at the pier and all the boats are bobbing.

The weather prediction had always been for strong winds tonight and they aren't wrong at around 50kph.

Sunday 13 November

In the UK they mark 2 minutes silence today as well for Remembrance Sunday and the Queen lays a wreath at the Cenotaph in London. We wondered why everyone was still wearing poppies yesterday. In fact everyone has been wearing poppies for about a month now which seems odd to us.

The strong winds kept up all night and continue this morning. The guy with the kite yesterday would end up in Ireland if he tried to fly it today.

This morning was the first time we heard church bells in the distance, at a very civilised 8am which reminds us of home as the same thing happens each Sunday morning with the New Farm catholic church.

We spend the morning slopping around and planning where we'll head next as our adventure draws to an end at the end of the month.

With no sign of the winds dying down we rug up and head downtown to sample a Cornish pasty in Cornwall. It's a bit difficult to walk the street lining the beach today as we're being blown about by wind and sand but we do find a slightly sheltered spot to watch the seagulls and other small birds using the wind's stream to float over the ocean.

We couldn't see any seals out today but a handful of surfers brave the cold to try and catch a good wave.

Instead of the wind dying down for tonight it seems to have picked up which is quite scary and not good for sleeping. But we've really enjoyed St Ives and would definitely return for a longer stay, but in a holiday cottage next time, not a motor home and in summer, not autumn.

Monday 14 November

Happy birthday to Sylvi's godfather from Noumea.

The wind kept up all night but slightly less strong then the night before. We pack up and head for the most southern point in the UK. No, it's not Land's End which has apparently been turned into a tacky tourist attraction (like John O Groats in the north) but Lizard Point which is much less developed.

We stop quickly in Penzance to do a Tesco shop and see a helicopter take off from the grounds right beside. This is the British International Helicopters which services the nearby Isle of Scilly and we hear later in the news it may soon be moved to a different location much to the locals' dismay.  As an aside, this is the Penzance as in the musical The Pirates of Penzance!

Recently we discovered there is a St Michael's Mount in this southerly location, almost directly opposite from Mont St Michel in Normandy France on the other side of the English Channel, which we visited nearly 3 months ago. We were worried that it would be closed this time of year but luckily it opens Tuesdays and Fridays and is free to National Trust members (that's us).  

Just like Mont St Michel, a vision of archangel Michael lead to the building of a church on this site in the 5^th century and later a Celtic monastery. In the 11^th century after the construction of a castle, Edward the Confessor handed everything over to the Benedictine monks of Mont St Michel. After the Civil War it became the residence of the St Aubyn family whose decendents still live here. Amazing.

It is possible to walk to the castle when the tide is out but if it's not there are boats to take you across which is what we'll have to do tomorrow. Today we pull up in the carpark to admire it from afar and also watch some windsurfers battling the wind and rough waves. There seems to be either a lot of seaspray in the air or fog which gives the castle an eerie, mystical appearance.

Next stop is Lizard Point, the most southerly point of England, also administered by the National Trust but we have to park our rig in town as it won't fit down the road to their carpark. The walk to the point is only a mile from the Village of Lizard.

We are thankful to have rugged up because once you're on the coastal path it is very windy. Anyone trying to jump off the cliff would be pushed back by the force of the wind, it's that strong.  And then we are there - looking out to the rocky outcrop that is Lizard Point.

There used to be a lifeboat station here and the building remains along with most of the launch ramp. The plaque near the lifeboat station building tells of 400-odd shipwrecks in this area over the years.

There are photos on the plague of when the Lifeboat station was active, and one reproduced below, showed a lifeboat being launched - which would have been very hairy indeed.

Sylvi sees one seal disappear under the waves and apparently it's not uncommon to see baby seals sunning themselves on the beach below while their parents hunt for food, but we didn't see any. 

Bill takes a photo of the most southerly house and Sylvi wonders how often they'd open their windows. Certainly not necessary today.

After lunch we take a short walk to Church Cove where the most southerly house with a thatched roof stands! Also there are some lovely stone cottages and a very steep, long cement ramp where amazingly boats can be launched. It's hard to believe that would occur in this location as today the waves pound from all sides. But it is a very magestic spot and on a brighter day we could easily have stayed longer just taking in the beauty of the ocean and surrounding grassy cliffs.

Back on the road we head for our camp site, Carnon Downs Caravan Park at Truro, which has the most fabulous facilities and great protection from the ongoing wind.

Apparently “Super Mario” (Mario Monti) is now in charge of Italy. On the local news, an “Occupy xxx” group have now set up outside the Exeter Cathedral protesting against corporate greed and wealth inequality. We wonder if we tried to set up camp in a carpark somewhere whether the police would let us or move us on quick smart.

Archealogical digs in Truro have revealed the trenches dug for camp sites for American troops waiting to take part in the D-Day Landings in Normandy.

Tuesday 15 November

The wind continues although not as strong but still as annoying at night. Our plan this morning was to leave Truro by 9am and be back at the terminal at Marazion in time to catch the 10:15am ferry across to St Michael's Mount for our 11am visit of the castle.

All was going well until long lines of traffic started forming, then we heard on the radio that an accident had occurred ahead of us so delays were expected. By the time we got past the “accident” (which wasn't an accident at all but a guy broken down, and why couldn't the tow truck just take him off the single lane road and let the morning traffic past?!) we had wasted 20 minutes.

Anyway, the universe was on our side once again and we made it with minutes to spare. The ferry wasn't a ferry at all but an amphibious vehicle as the distance isn't that great or deep. There was nothing to pay to park or for the trip over and as we're National Trust members we don't pay to visit the castle. Bonus. If you are contemplating a trip like this, it really is hugh value for money to join the National Trust, as they manage so many properties in the UK.

The morning group of about 30 people were split between two guides and the first took us up the steep slope with very slippery rocks of all sizes to visit the first well which used to supply the castle's water, the pet cemetery and the lower battlements with canons. During many early wars, the castle was seized by different parties and sold many times. The guide also explained that forest used to surround the Mount from as far back as 1700BC and the ocean was 10km out.

Our tour took over an hour and we visited 1/3 of the castle which is still decorated in 19^th century style. The other 2/3 are occupied by the St Aubyn family and staff.

Queen Victoria and her husband Albert dropped by unexpected in 1846 to find no-one home other then the housekeeper who served them tea in the Blue Room which we saw. This room also held a photo of Prince Charles and Camilla who visited (announced) in July 2010. A cement cast of their footprints is located near the shop on the lower level as are those of Queen Victoria.

The best room, Chevy Chase, which refers to the friezes depicting a battle which adorn the walls, was unfortunately under renovation.  This was once the refectory for the monks and is now a large dining room with beautiful double sided table (plain on one side and shiny on the other), coats of arms on the walls, 15^th century stained glass windows and large fireplace. The extent of the renovations will include removing and repairing the vaulted ceiling which is unstable.

On the rooftop before entering the Chapel you get a great view of the surrounding ocean as well as the gardens below. By now we can see the exposed causeway on which we'll be returning by foot as the tide is now out.

The Chapel itself is quite small and made of large stone blocks. It is open to one and all each Sunday for service. In the 19^th century, the body of a monk was found in a small room leading from the Chapel. This door is now left ajar and reveals the roped off spooky stone steps which lead to his discovery.

Many artefacts found during excavations or by the gardeners are on display as well as pill boxes and other trinkets found in a forgotten box.  The other interesting items on display were the chairs that Lord and Lady St Levan of the day sat in at the coronation of various monarchs, including Queen Elizabeth II, King George V and VI.  Apparently, if you get invited to a Coronation, and are a Lord, you get to keep the named chairs as keepsakes!

The walk back down the steep slope with slippery rocks was no joy but we made it in one piece. We thought the causeway might also be slippery with algae but it wasn't.

A quick look around the town of Marazion revealed the usual charming stone buildings and we found a spot to sit for some lunch and look at the great view of the Mount.  We are so pleased that we could visit this place after having experienced the French version several months ago. They are both spectacular constructions, and very different - but both highly recommended places to visit.

The rest of our photos from Cornwall are here.